How a Bespoke Shoe Is Made (2): Last and Pattern

The Last

Once the client’s foot measurements have been taken, the bespoke lasts are created – a step also referred to as "shaping the last." The last is a positive model of the foot and serves as the foundation for the shoe’s construction. In bespoke shoemaking, this means that a unique pair of lasts must be crafted specifically for the individual. In contrast, ready-to-wear shoes are built on standardized lasts designed to fit as many people as possible. For more on this topic, see our Journal article: “Bespoke vs. Ready-to-Wear – What Sets Them Apart.”

The bespoke last can be made in various ways, depending on the manufacturer. Some use a wooden base last and build it up according to the client’s measurements. Others work with a modular plastic last system and configure the last individually. Some artisans even shape the last manually from a block of wood or create it using a special last foam. What all methods have in common is this: the client’s individual foot dimensions are transferred onto the last – and these dimensions play a key role in defining the fit of the shoe.

The Pattern

The bespoke last now serves as the base for designing and shaping the upper. The term upper refers to the combined components of the outer material and lining that form the top portion of the shoe – from the sole upward.

The design process begins by drawing the desired look of the shoe directly onto the last. This outline is then transferred to a base paper model, which captures all key lines, seams, and design details. In doing so, the three-dimensional form is reduced to a two-dimensional pattern.

Next comes the detailing stage: the base model is broken down into individual parts, and technical seam and construction margins are added. The result is a complete set of cutting templates used to create the components of the upper and lining materials.

You’ll discover the next step in the shoemaking process in our following Journal article. Click here to read more.