Bespoke vs. Ready-to-Wear – What Sets Them Apart
Bespoke shoes are one-of-a-kind and tailored to the wearer. Ready-to-wear shoes follow standardized formats – with clear differences in materials, construction depth, and, above all, fit.
Bespoke and ready-to-wear represent fundamentally different philosophies of shoemaking. Ready-to-wear shoes are series-produced products that are manufactured in standard sizes – often with extensive machine support. In the high-end and luxury segment, this category is also referred to as prêt-à-porter, literally meaning “ready to wear.” A bespoke shoe, by contrast, is custom-tailored from the ground up and traditionally handcrafted as a unique piece.
To make the differences more tangible, let’s take a closer look at both types of shoes – using a classic welted men’s dress shoe with a leather outsole and leather heel as our reference point.
The Ready-to-Wear Shoe
A high-quality ready-to-wear shoe typically ranges in price from €800 to €2,000 – depending on the materials used, the type of construction, and the place of origin. Many of these models are produced by long-established manufacturers with a rich heritage. Even though they are not mass-produced on an industrial scale, they do not usually qualify as handcrafted in the traditional sense of individual craftsmanship. Machines play a central role – a necessity for efficiently producing consistent quality across the entire batch.
Unlike a bespoke shoe, the ready-to-wear model follows strict standards – in terms of last shape, materials, and construction. These standardized parameters make for more efficient production but allow only limited room for customization.
Key Steps in the Manufacturing Process
Cutting
The individual pieces for the upper and lining are typically cut using hydraulic presses and precision steel dies – rather than by hand with a knife. This results in significant time savings.
Pre-Assembly
To ensure the cut pieces can be processed smoothly by machine, they must be prepared in advance. One example is laminating – a process where stretchable materials are reinforced with textile backing to reduce flexibility.
Stitching
The individual components are stitched together using sewing machines to assemble what is known as the upper. These machines are precisely calibrated to match the thread thickness and the material thickness specified for the respective production model.
Lasting
With the help of lasting machines, the stitched upper is shaped over a standardized last and attached to the insole. Here too, all materials must be carefully selected for consistent thickness and elasticity – so the lasting machines can operate efficiently and deliver uniform results.
Bottoming
In the Goodyear construction method, a special stitching machine is used to attach the welt to the upper and the insole. The metal shank and bottom filler material are then added before the outsole is mounted. This pre-cut outsole is glued in place and machine-stitched to the welt – creating the characteristic outsole stitch. The heel block is typically added as a pre-fabricated component to streamline the production process.
Finishing
Sole and heel edges are shaped using specialized milling machines and then smoothed using a scouring machine. Finally, the sole and heel are dyed and polished – and the shoe receives its signature finish.
Limited Room for Customization
Customization options in ready-to-wear shoes are extremely limited. This is primarily due to the requirements of series production – which relies on standardized materials, shapes, and machine processes.
One good example is the upper leather: Extra-soft and stretchable deer leather cannot be processed in the same way as firmer box calf, because lasting machines operate within a very narrow tolerance range. Even slight variations in leather thickness or stretch behavior can result in complications during processing.
The same applies to decorative elements like stitching. If a thicker thread is desired for a more prominent seam, the sewing machine must be completely recalibrated. This only makes sense for large production runs – not for one-off pairs.
There are also clear limitations when it comes to sole components: Pre-fabricated outsoles are only compatible with specific last shapes. To ensure these components can be assembled accurately, the entire shoe structure must fall within precisely defined tolerances.
In short: The logic of industrial production demands standardization. Deviations create additional effort – and this is only feasible in exceptional cases. Anything beyond those boundaries belongs to the realm of bespoke – the domain of truly individual craftsmanship.
The Bespoke Shoe
A traditionally made bespoke shoe is the gold standard in footwear – and that is also reflected in the price, which starts at around €3,000. It all begins with a bespoke last, created from detailed foot measurements. Since no two feet are alike, even significant differences between the left and right foot can be accommodated. Every aspect of the shoe is tailored to the wearer’s personal dimensions, functional needs, and aesthetic preferences.
Once the design has been discussed, the leather is selected. Depending on the type of shoe and its intended use, the ideal material and color combination can be chosen – from a refined dress shoe in premium chèvre to a rugged boot in waterproof cowhide.
A custom pattern is then created for the upper – precisely matched to the last and cut by hand from the chosen leather. The preparation of the upper pieces is a labor-intensive process in itself: Edges are carefully folded to create a clean, closed look, and decorative stitching can be added during assembly. Set-up time plays only a minor role in this context, as each machine has to be fine-tuned specifically for the individual upper.
Unique and Handcrafted
The upper is shaped and lasted by hand over the bespoke last – a step that allows the shoemaker to respond directly to the contours of the last and the properties of the leather.
The difference becomes even more apparent during bottoming: Bespoke shoes never use pre-made outsole components. The outsole always follows the precise contour of the insole – itself defined by the underside of the bespoke last. The heel is built up layer by layer, nailed with wooden pegs, and adjusted to the customer’s preferred heel height. And the shoe is of course hand-welted – the welt, insole, and upper are stitched together entirely by hand.
This traditional stitching technique is often confused with Goodyear welting – which is used in nearly all welted men’s shoes in the ready-to-wear segment. But Goodyear is a machine-based process that involves gluing a textile rib to the insole before stitching. True hand-welting, by contrast, is highly complex and physically demanding – and remains in a class of its own in terms of technical precision and durability.
Another distinguishing feature is the final outsole stitch connecting the welt and the outsole – executed by hand in bespoke shoemaking, but machine-stitched in ready-to-wear production.
Craftsmanship at Its Finest
Even the finishing of a bespoke shoe reflects the mastery of the craft. The sole is scoured by hand – traditionally using a piece of glass – until a smooth, mirror-like edge appears. The characteristic leather color is brought out using traditional water-based polishing techniques, and the entire shoe receives a high-gloss finish.
Each manufacture and shoemaker has their own finishing secrets – subtle techniques that define their unique approach and craftsmanship. By contrast, finishing in ready-to-wear shoemaking is optimized for standardized materials and often involves machine support, resulting in a much shorter process.
This was just a brief glimpse into the world of bespoke shoemaking. To explore each step in more detail, see our ten-part Journal series: “How a Bespoke Shoe Is Made.”
Conclusion
In a traditionally made bespoke shoe, the terms “handmade” and “manufacture” take on their full meaning. The level of craftsmanship involved is vastly higher – and cosmetic perfection is held to a completely different standard. Every step is executed with care and precision. Every shoe is a one-of-a-kind creation.
There is also a deeply personal element that is often overlooked: A bespoke shoe is always the result of a dialogue between wearer and shoemaker. From the initial measurement to the detailed model consultation, this personal connection lays the foundation for a shoe that is truly unique in every way.