How a Bespoke Shoe Is Made (3): Building the Upper
Cutting the upper parts by hand is followed by precise stitching, which connects the pieces into a stable, formable upper – the next step toward a finished bespoke shoe.
Cutting the Parts
Using the previously created set of cutting templates, the corresponding parts of the outer and lining uppers are cut. In bespoke shoemaking, this is still done almost exclusively by hand using a special, very sharp cutting knife.
Next, the cut parts are prepared for further processing – a step known as “prepping.” This includes, among other things, drawing on the positions for decorative seams or eyelet holes, as well as the so-called skiving. Skiving refers to thinning the edges of the leather toward the outer perimeter – especially important when two pieces overlap. Skiving is done either by hand with a special skiving knife or with a skiving machine. If this step were skipped, there would be visible material transitions that could negatively impact wearing comfort. Skiving is also essential when the leather edge is to be folded over for cosmetic reasons – a process known as folding. Parts are folded to eliminate raw leather edges on the finished shoe.
Stitching the Upper
In the next step, the prepared parts are stitched together using sewing machines. Different stitch types and materials require different machines. It’s important to note that stitching leather is very different from sewing textiles. With fabric, a faulty seam can usually be undone without leaving a trace. Leather, however, is permanently perforated with each needle hole – so once a seam is sewn, it can’t be undone without visible damage. This means every seam must be perfect on the first attempt.
By joining the two-dimensional leather parts, a three-dimensional structure is created: the finished upper. It consists of the outer upper – the visible part of the shoe – and the lining upper, which comes into direct contact with the foot.
Now the upper needs to be shaped – and that happens through a process called lasting, where it’s pulled and formed over the bespoke last. But before we get to that, a few more important steps are required – which we’ll cover in the next Journal article.