A bespoke shoe is the result of meticulous craftsmanship: personal consultation, precise foot measurement, and carefully selected materials ensure a perfect fit, maximum comfort, and a distinctive aesthetic.
When a client decides on a bespoke pair of shoes, the entire process begins with a personal bespoke appointment – either at our manufacture or with a shoemaker of their choice. During this initial meeting, we discuss which shoe model is desired and what purpose the new pair of bespoke shoes is intended to serve.
This is particularly important in the realm of classic shoes, where many different styles exist – depending on the client’s personal preferences, the intended use, and also the required fit. We will explore the different types of classic shoes in more detail in future Journal articles. Some of the best-known styles include the classic Derby, as well as its variant, the Budapester, which is distinguished by its characteristic brogue perforations. Another well-known style is the Oxford, which can also be made with traditional broguing upon request – either as a semi-brogue or full-brogue Oxford. And of course, we must not forget the timeless style without laces, but with a buckle: the Monk. The choice of model also influences the choice of materials. For example, you wouldn’t craft a sophisticated business shoe from heavy waterproof leather, just as you wouldn’t make a sturdy mountain boot from delicate chevreau (goat leather).
In the next step, the client’s feet are carefully analyzed for any abnormalities or anatomical features that may benefit from compensation through a bespoke fit. This assessment includes creating a weight-bearing foot impression to realistically visualize the pressure distribution on the sole and to detect any misalignments. This can be done using a traditional ink impression (2D footprint), a digital foot scan, or even a three-dimensional foam impression.
The actual measurements are then taken using a measuring tape at defined points on both feet. The tape is applied with varying degrees of tension depending on the area, in order to refine the later fit. For example, at the ball of the foot, the tape is applied more loosely to preserve the necessary width in this area. Just slightly higher, across the instep, the so-called instep girth is measured more tightly – using a so-called undersize approach. This is because the foot is softer and more flexible in this region, and we want the shoe to wrap around it firmly to ensure a secure fit. If this area is measured too loosely, the foot may slip inside the shoe. That’s why experience and sensitivity are essential for determining the ideal fit.
In our view, traditional analog measuring techniques are still clearly superior to newer digital methods. While high-precision 3D scanners can capture the foot’s surface in minute detail, a machine cannot determine how much undersize or oversize is needed at a particular point to achieve the best possible fit for the individual client.
If you're interested in a bespoke appointment, feel free to schedule one with us here.
In our next Journal article on bespoke shoemaking, we’ll take a closer look at the next step in the process: shaping the last.
