How a Bespoke Shoe Is Made (8): Leather Heel and Anti-Slip Sole

The Leather Heel

The heel plays a key role in the construction of the sole. It significantly influences both the appearance and functionality of the finished shoe. Width, length, and height are important parameters that can be individually tailored to the intended purpose and the customer's anatomy. Viewed from the back, straight or even slightly flared heels offer greater stability, while tapered and overall narrower heels convey a more elegant impression.

The same applies to the length of the heel – in other words, how far it extends into the waist area (the freely suspended section underneath the foot). The larger this free-floating area, the lighter and more delicate the shoe appears. Conversely, the further the heel reaches into the waist, the more support it can provide for the foot.

Naturally, heel height also plays a decisive role in how the shoe feels when worn. The higher the heel, the more elegant – but also the less comfortable – the shoe becomes, as more pressure is placed on the metatarsal heads (the ball of the foot) due to the forward shift of body weight. The lower the heel, the more natural the walking experience. In the end, a bespoke shoe’s heel should strike a well-balanced compromise between aesthetics and function.

Regardless of shape and height, the construction of the heel in a high-end bespoke shoe follows the same principles. The heel block is built up from several layers of stacked sole leather. These layers are glued together and additionally fixed with nails. In some cases – especially in high-end models – this is still done the traditional way using wooden pegs. To do this, a special drill is first used to pierce a hole through both heel and insole, into which the wooden peg is then driven – a labor-intensive and time-consuming process. However, wooden pegs have the advantage of offering better grip compared to steel nails, as the wood fibers interlock with the leather fibers, increasing the bond’s overall strength.

Since the bottom of the shoe is never entirely flat when viewed from the rear – it is usually slightly curved – the heel must compensate for this. A level surface is essential for secure footing. Each leather layer must therefore be leveled so that the shoe stands evenly on the ground. The final layer of the heel – the top lift – must also be factored in. It is usually made of rubber to improve slip resistance and walking comfort.

If the shoe is also to be equipped with an anti-slip sole (also typically made of rubber) in the forefoot area, this must be taken into account during heel construction – more on that in the next section.

Once all layers of the heel are in place, the shaping begins. As mentioned earlier, there are various design possibilities. After the heel has been roughly sanded into shape, it is additionally worked with the shoemaker’s hammer. In this process, the shoemaker uses the sharp-edged cross peen of the hammer to tap along the outer edge of the heel. This compresses the leather, making it more resistant to mechanical wear such as scratches. In many cases, the final top lift is also secured with several brass nails – partly for aesthetic reasons, but also to increase durability.

The Anti-Slip Sole

Classic leather soles have a beautiful appearance but one notable drawback: they become slippery when wet. For better everyday functionality, slip-resistant rubber soles are often added to the forefoot area. These are easier to replace when worn out – repairing a rubber half-sole is far less complex than renewing the entire leather outsole including the outsole stitch.

However, this type of sole construction may slightly affect the shoe’s elegance when viewed from the side, as the added layer increases the perceived thickness of the outsole. This can be particularly noticeable in more delicate designs. For this reason, special intarsia soles exist – like the ones we use for our Vitallo Kontorline models. In this construction, the anti-slip sole is applied to the forefoot but does not extend all the way to the edge; instead, it stops roughly eight millimeters before the leather sole ends. This ensures that the profile still reveals the fine, slim silhouette of the leather outsole – preserving the elegant appearance of the bespoke shoe while also delivering enhanced slip resistance. The inlay is undoubtedly a labor-intensive but very refined solution for adding functionality to a classic bespoke shoe without compromising its visual appeal.

We are now gradually approaching the completion of our bespoke shoe. The next step will focus on finishing and the final cosmetic details. Read more in the next part of our series.