How a Bespoke Shoe Is Made (9): Finishing and Final Steps

Finishing

The sole and heel have now been fully constructed, but their side surfaces still show a rough, open-pored texture from previous steps, and the natural leather color is still visible. Now it’s time for the final artisanal refinements – the finishing work. This refers to the cosmetic fine-tuning of the shoe that also contributes to its durability. It begins with the fine sanding of the heel’s sidewall and the entire edge of the leather sole. After that, the edge is further smoothed by hand using a specially broken shard of glass to achieve a perfectly polished surface.

Next comes the dyeing and polishing of the leather sole. This can be done either with colored leather dye or with colorless water-based polishes. Colored waxes are also used, which are melted into the leather under heat using various tools – such as an anvil and edge irons. Using special decorative wheels, the shoemaker then imprints classic details like the traditional zigzag pattern along the welt or characteristic embellishments along the sole edge. Every shoemaker has their own philosophies and personal refinements here.

The upper is now given a final “make-up” treatment – either to bring out the natural structure of the leather or to polish the shoe to a high gloss. Depending on the house’s philosophy and the desired aesthetic, the upper can also be given a more expressive patina by selectively darkening and polishing certain areas of the shoe – a process known as the antique finish.

Finishing and surface treatment are time-intensive steps that significantly enhance the overall quality of the bespoke shoe – and highlight its unique visual character down to the last detail.

Removing the Last and Final Steps

Once the shoe is completed, the last is removed – a process known as “delasting.” Depending on the last type, various tools such as the last hook are used. Without these aids, removing the last from a shoe that has been precisely shaped around it would be nearly impossible. The interior is then checked for any foreign objects. During the construction process, for example, the tips of the wooden pegs may have pierced the inner surface. These are removed using special rasps, and the insole is sanded smooth. The work laces are now replaced with the final shoelaces.

Lastly, two key elements are added – essential for any fine bespoke shoe: the footbed and the shoe tree. Find out what happens next in the final journal article of this series.