How a Bespoke Shoe Is Made (7): Outsole Stitching

Preparatory Steps

Before the outsole stitching can begin, the leather sole is first attached and glued to the shoe bottom. It is then trimmed and sanded to match the contour of the shoe last – ensuring that it sits flush with the welt and projects evenly all around when viewed from above. Next, a channel is cut into the outsole at a specific distance from the sole edge (this varies depending on the manufacturer). To do this, the leather sole is incised at an angle using a sharp knife. The resulting flap is lifted to create a recess in the sole. This recessed groove is where the outsole seam will later run, permanently connecting the leather outsole to the upper part of the shoe.

Outsole Stitching

The next step is once again carried out by hand, using the bristle (see previous article), with each stitch carefully placed one at a time. The stitch length varies depending on the construction method (e.g., welted or double-stitched shoes) and the manufacturer, typically ranging from six to ten millimeters. The awl pierces through the welt into the outsole’s channel, and the seam visible from the underside lies entirely within that groove.

The total thickness of the leather layers to be pierced in this process can range between nine and twelve millimeters, depending on the sole construction and the leather used. This makes the process extremely labor-intensive and physically demanding – not to mention the precision required to guide the awl through thick leather and hit the narrow channel perfectly without deviation.

As with the welting stitch, the outsole stitch on welted shoes typically runs from heel to heel over the toe. In double-stitched models, the seam runs around the entire perimeter of the shoe. Once the stitching is complete, the channel is coated with adhesive and closed by folding down the flap. It is then pressed and compacted with a hammer.

In the finished state, the outsole seam is barely visible – reduced to a thin, subtle line on the leather sole. Beyond its refined appearance, this closed channel also serves a functional purpose: unlike the visible stitches found in many lower-end, machine-stitched shoes, it protects the seam from external wear and damage, significantly extending the life of the bespoke shoe.

The Triple-Stitched Shoe

Depending on the manufacturer and the model, an additional midsole may be inserted between the welt and outsole and stitched as well. In this case, three seams are used to join welt, upper, midsole, and outsole. This particularly elaborate construction method is referred to as triple-stitched footwear.

On request, we also offer triple-stitched constructions for models in our Vitallo Kontorline. However, we have refined traditional sole stitching techniques to develop our own method – the Vitallo TroisCoutures construction. In this approach, all three seams – the welting seam and both outsole seams – run entirely around the shoe. Especially lightweight and flexible materials, combined with this special construction technique, result in the wearing comfort of a casual shoe. But the meticulous stitching is just one of many details that make our Vitallo Kontorline shoes so exceptional – learn more here.

The next Journal article focuses on another key element of the bespoke shoe: the stacked leather heel.