How a Bespoke Shoe Is Made (5): Lasting

Lasting

Lasting gives the previously shapeless upper its final form. To begin with, the upper is placed over the custom-made last and the attached insole. In the next step, it is pulled over the last using special lasting pliers and fixed to the insole with nails or staples. At the toe and heel, pulling the upper over the edge of the last creates excess material. The shoemaker must now use controlled tension to distribute these folds evenly.

The art of lasting lies in applying just the right amount of tension – so that the left and right shoes mirror each other as closely as possible, and at the same time, the upper fits the individual last with precision in both shape and proportion. It is also important to avoid air pockets so that the upper sits flush against the last without gaps.

During lasting, the shoemaker directly influences the fit. By adjusting the level of pull, he determines how much tension is placed on the material – whether a certain degree of residual flexibility remains to enhance the wearing comfort later, or whether the material is pulled tight to prevent future stretching and ensure a firmer fit. An experienced shoemaker varies the tension at different parts of the shoe to optimize both the fit and the wearing comfort for the individual customer.

The required tension depends on the type of material and the construction of the upper. If pulled too tightly, the seams may not withstand the stress, causing the thread to snap – or worse: the material may tear or split. In that case, the process has to start over from the cutting stage, and a great deal of time, effort, and craftsmanship is lost. This is just one example of the risks involved in bespoke production – and one of the factors that influence the price.

Hammering

A key step is hammering the lasted upper with a shoemaker’s hammer. Using a series of rapid, precise strikes, remaining transitions in the upper – for example at the toe or heel caps – are evened out. At the same time, the leather fibers are compacted to improve shape retention. In the toe and heel area, folds created during lasting are further reduced to facilitate the next steps in the process.

Hammering also allows the shoemaker to subtly influence the appearance of the finished shoe. Even minor changes to the leather surface affect how the material reflects light. This can be used to visually highlight or soften certain areas – ideally making the shoe look even more elegant. Carefully applied hammering also smooths the upper, helping to create the distinctive finish of a truly refined bespoke shoe.

In the next step, the shoe bottom – that is, the sole – is attached. Learn more about it here.